So if you’ve been following my Instagram or you’re my mother, you know I was recently in Mexico City. I’ll be honest, it had never really been on my list of destinations but about 6 months ago, my friend called me up and said he found $300 roundtrip, nonstop flights from JFK. How could I say no to that?
It’s rare that I want to return to a vacation spot, as I usually like to experience new places before repeating, but I will absolutely be going back. Think Manhattan but so much cleaner, brighter, and more colorful. You can feel the culture and spirit of Mexico in the air but don’t breathe in too deeply- it’s about 7,000 feet up and has some pretty terrible air pollution.
The greatest part is that the exchange rate is fantastic- about 18 pesos to one American dollar- which means even the highest quality experiences are still incredibly low cost by a New Yorker’s standards. Uber charges are honestly hilarious, and you can get three meals worth of tacos for about $5.
This article cannot possibly encapsulate my entire journey so I’m just going to highlight the things I really want you to know about.
Restaurants
Churreria el Moro: I already knew I liked churros before this trip but something about a fresh one while in Mexico really sealed the deal. The perfect churro will be crispy and chewy on the outside while slightly fluffy on the inside, and evenly coated with cinnamon and sugar. These were exactly that but so much more. Get the chocolate sauce and the caramel sauce to go with them but make sure you taste the churro on its own.
Our first meal upon arrival was found by a simple Google search and it did not disappoint. We were seated on a lovely little patio and attended to by at least 3 different servers since we were basically the only people in the place (it was only 6 pm which is extremely early to eat dinner in Mexico.) Get the meatballs, the tortilla soup, and the peneques (read: corn torillas stuffed with goat cheese and fried) at minimum, but if you’re into molé, this place really knows what they’re doing. Shoutout to the fresh blackberry mojito and the fabulous soundtrack of classic 80s American pop.
Just like the rest of the city, our food at Recomienda was wonderful, but that’s not why I’m putting it on the list. The service at this establishment is top-notch, and is absolutely the reason why everyone needs to give them business. Run by a husband and wife team in a little place, their adorably fluffy dog Teddy hangs out with customers while they wait for their huge plates of simply delicious food. Plus, every meal comes with orange juice, the most wonderful coffee I’ve ever had (and I don’t even drink the stuff), plus a bowl of fresh fruit. Even with the language barrier, the owner was so pleasant and helpful as he waited on us, providing a truly fantastic final eating experience in Mexico City.
This one was an accident. We were in line waiting at this tiny corner stand for breakfast tortas (La Esquina de Chilaquil) and my two friends went hunting for coffee. What they found was a beautiful little cafe serving fresh coffee and unique baked goods that looked like they popped right out of a magazine. I had the Nutella babka- I mean, come on.
Since most of our trip focused on street food and small shops, we wanted one night out at a fine dining restaurant. I went on Open Table and just searched for the highest rated places in Mexico City, finding this absolute GEM. Based on photos, we opted to sit on their truly stunning outdoor patio which was actually partially enclosed, with a view of the huge tree inside the restaurant. Yeah, a tree. But the food, oh my god, the food. I’m going to say this is one of the top 5 greatest meals I’ve ever had- I almost wept when I bit into my short rib, it was that good. Exceptional service, handcrafted cocktails, extensive wine list, locally sourced ingredients, and just an outstanding experience. And because it’s Mexico, we could afford to really go for it.
Things to Try
Chicharron: fresh fried pig skin- think pork rinds. But not all chicharron are created equal; get it from a stand, not a restaurant. Salty, fatty, crunchy- you’re welcome.
Pulque: a sweet alcoholic beverage made of fermented agave. This stuff is stupid good but don’t drink a liter by yourself, you’ll end up with a stomach ache. Try a fruit flavor rather than the ‘natural’ kind. You can get it at some bars or this tiny, overcrowded dive called Pulqueria las Duelistas- just take it to go and walk around Vegas-style with your giant styrofoam cup.
Michelada: an extremely fun creation of local beer (we had Tecate because duh) that’s in a cup lined with tamarind goo. So you lick the goo and drink the beer and yum. They also come Bloody Mary style with tomato juice but I prefer without.
Places and Markets
Mercado Roma: An indoor market full of upscale vendors selling everything from Mezcal to candy to empanadas to spices. There’s a beer garden with live music, too. And the best part is every vendor is happy to let you sample so it’s like a more fun version of Costco.
There are people who love food, and then there are people like me who idolize anything culinary. Enter the amazing guides at Eat Like a Local, who lead five-hour private food tours through the intricate markets in the heart of Mexico City. Because of their personal relationships with every vendor, we had the luxury of one-of-a-kind experiences like sampling every species of fruit at one stand. The owner took his time hand-picking each piece that he’d offer to us, ensuring it was of the highest quality, and trust me, it was worth his effort.
We ate at least 5 tacos but at some point I lost count, trying mixiote (a mixture of stewed beef and lamb) from a 4-generation old recipe, braised brisket with tortillas fried in the meat fat, fresh pork carnitas cooked that morning, and a green chorizo (filled with herbs and spinach) taco that about blew my mind. There was an insect stand that I won’t discuss because it wasn’t my finest moment- yes, I tried bugs but I really, really hated it. Too many legs.
Our guide, Astrid, was my soul sister, handing me fun little treats that weren’t on the schedule just so she could watch me react with the joy and excitement I always get when trying something deliciously new. It wasn’t just the food on this tour that was unbelievable, but the entire experience that Astrid created for us. The pride that she has for her country’s cuisine is palpable and contagious, and as we wound our way through the intricate markets, I felt simultaneously transported and comforted by the smells and sounds around us.
This woman-owned company is doing wonderful things for the culinary entrepreneurs of Mexico City and they deserve your business. If you’re going to CDMX anytime soon, do yourself a favor and schedule a tour. Ask for Astrid, and tell her Taryn and her New York friends sent you.
Eat things from street carts, try to learn some Spanish, and sample everything this beautiful country has to offer.
I’m happy to discuss in-depth with anyone who is interested in visiting CDMX so please reach out or comment with any questions!
This Post Has 2 Comments
Sounds like a great trip despite the altitude-lution.
America is definitely lacking in that home-y feeling, especially with cafes. I love how in Mexico (and in Europe, and probably everywhere but USA) there is never any urgency to leave, you don’t have angry waitstaff hovering, trying to shove you out so that they can turn the table around to get more $$. Recomienda is LITERALLY the owner’s house and that feeling was so pervasive through the whole meal. If only cafes here had a Teddy.
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